What’s it about?
Grace
Coddington is creative director of US Vogue. Quietly adored by designers,
photographers and fashion lovers alike, she won a horde of new fans and
mainstream attention in 2007 after her feisty, stand-out turn in R.J. Cutler’s
documentary, The September Issue. Grace is her memoir.
From a childhood spent on a dreary Welsh island, to her much-lauded work for the world’s most recognised fashion Bible, Grace charts Coddington’s rise from windswept loner to one of fashion’s most influential women.
What’s to like?
As you’d expect from Vogue’s creative director, Grace is a gorgeous package. In the
heavily saturated market of celebrity biography and coffee table beauties, it’s
an eye-catching affair: big, weighty and jacketed in vivid orange (a playful
nod to Coddington’s unruly ginger mane). The visual treats continue inside,
too. Charming hand-drawn illustrations add a touch of whimsy to her tales, and
carefully selected photographs showcase her impressive portfolio as top model
and genius fashion editor.
For its size and visual flair, the writing in Grace is disappointingly weak. While Coddington does recount the
chance encounters, influencers and hard work that catapulted her to the top of
her game, she is extremely light on personal details. Marriages, divorce and a
car crash that cost her an eye-lid are dealt with in a tone that is
matter-of-fact and devoid of emotion. Even a ‘traumatic’ miscarriage is reduced
to a few reserved lines. In The September
Issue Coddington is the passionate and oft warm spirit to Anna Wintour’s snow
queen. However, on paper, Coddington comes across not entirely dissimilar to
her infamously cool boss.
There are some tender moments where Coddington does pause to
reflect – the death of her sister, for example, is gently moving as are the words
she shares on Tristan, her orphaned nephew who she goes on to adopt. We do
catch a glimpse of the naughty Grace, too, when she lets slip a gossipy
anecdote about difficult celebs (Madonna) or romances that almost were (Jagger).
It soon becomes apparent that while she is sparse on the details of her own
life (zipping us through a good seventy years of it!), she delights in casting
the spotlight on others, painting some truly memorable pictures of close
acquaintances such as Karl Lagerfeld, Calvin Klein and John Galliano. She even
dedicates an entire chapter to Wintour, further suggesting that Coddington is
far more comfortable sharing stories of her relationships with others than
revealing too much of the relationship she has with herself.
Bruce Weber and his golden retrievers |
Grace is less memoir and more gossipy insight
into the fashion industry from the 1950s to the present day. Which is fine. As a fast and colourful history that documents
the trends, talents and tantrums from an insider who has pretty much seen it
all, Grace really does excel. But for
those wanting to know more about Coddington herself and her work, I suggest
stocking up on some back issues of Vogue
where you’ll get a clearer picture marvelling at the exceptional narratives she
creates for its pages.
It does make a stunning coffee table addition though…
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